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Hydrator · DermaGlass® ingredient

Hyaluronic acid

INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate

A water-binding molecule your skin already makes, used to hydrate the surface and soften the look of fine lines.

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Vanu Health Research Team · Updated

What is hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a sugar-based molecule (a glycosaminoglycan) found naturally in skin, where it holds water between cells. In skincare it is almost always used as its salt, sodium hyaluronate, which dissolves easily in water and is more stable in formulas.

What it does for skin

It is a humectant: it draws water to the outer layers of the skin and holds it there, so skin looks smoother and plumper while it is hydrated.

Size matters. Large (high-molecular-weight) hyaluronic acid stays on the surface and forms a hydrating film; smaller fragments can travel further into the outer skin layers.

What the research shows

In a 60-day study of 76 women aged 30 to 60, creams with 0.1% hyaluronic acid of five different molecular weights were applied twice daily around one eye, with a plain cream around the other. Every hyaluronic acid cream improved skin hydration and elasticity compared with the plain cream. Wrinkle depth improved significantly only with the two smallest forms (50 and 130 kDa).

The study was small, looked only at the eye area, and several co-authors worked for companies that supplied the test ingredients.

In DermaGlass®

Sodium hyaluronate is listed 15th of 21 ingredients. The pack does not state its molecular weight or concentration.

In a sheet mask, the serum stays in contact with the skin for the full wear time — at least 30 minutes for DermaGlass®.

See the full DermaGlass® ingredient list or how to use the mask.

Safety

Hyaluronic acid is one of the most widely used and best-tolerated skincare ingredients. Patch-test any new product if your skin is sensitive.

Questions

Is sodium hyaluronate the same as hyaluronic acid?

It is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It behaves the same way on skin and is easier to formulate because it dissolves well in water.

Does hyaluronic acid reduce wrinkles?

It makes skin look smoother while it is hydrated. In one controlled trial, wrinkle depth improved only with low-molecular-weight forms over 60 days.

Can I use hyaluronic acid every day?

Yes. It is gentle and suits daily use for most skin types.

Sources

  1. Pavicic T, et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011;10(9):990–1000.

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