What is Acetyl hexapeptide-3?
Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is a six-amino-acid peptide, sold under the name Argireline and others. Its sequence is based on the N-terminal end of SNAP-25, a protein involved in releasing chemical messengers from nerve endings.
It is used in eye creams and anti-wrinkle serums for lines that form with repeated facial movement.
How it is thought to work
The 2013 trial background describes the peptide as inhibiting vesicle docking by blocking formation of the SNARE complex, and as interfering with catecholamine release. The paper presents these as reported mechanisms, not as measurements in people.
Whether a topical peptide reaches the nerve endings at a useful level is uncertain. The trials measured wrinkles and skin texture at the surface, not nerve activity.
What the studies show
Every record below was checked against the paper. Where a result is from cells, animals or a combination product, the entry says so.
Wang Y, et al. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2013;14(2):147–153. (opens in a new tab)
Design. Randomised, placebo-controlled trial in 60 Chinese subjects with peri-orbital lines, allocated 3:1 to argireline or placebo, applied twice daily for 4 weeks.
Finding. By subjective grading, 48.9% of the argireline group improved against 0% of placebo. Roughness measured on skin replicas also fell in the argireline group.
Wang Y, et al. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2013. (opens in a new tab)
Design. Multicentre clinical study of 60 subjects with a 3:1 randomisation, plus a separate study in aged mice.
Finding. Reports the same 48.9% result in human subjects, and changes in skin structure in aged mice. The mouse work is not human evidence. The human cohort appears to match the study above, so count it once.
Raikou V, et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2017;16(2):271–278. (opens in a new tab)
Design. Randomised controlled trial in 24 healthy volunteers for 60 days. Four groups: the two peptides together, tripeptide-10 citrulline alone, acetyl hexapeptide-3 alone, and neither.
Finding. Skin texture and water loss differed between groups at day 20 and day 60. The authors report antiwrinkle activity for acetyl hexapeptide-3 and say how the two peptides might act together was not clear.
How it is used
Found in eye creams, serums and anti-wrinkle moisturisers. Product amounts are often not disclosed, so compare products on the full ingredient list.
The 2013 trial applied it twice daily for 4 weeks. The 2017 trial ran for 60 days, with measurements at day 20 and day 60. Results are reported over weeks, not days.
Safety
The 2013 trial aimed to assess safety as well as efficacy, but its abstract does not report side effects.
Patch-test a new product on a small area first, especially if your skin is sensitive or you react to fragrance or preservatives.
Talk to a doctor, dermatologist or pharmacist before starting a new active, especially if you are pregnant, have a skin condition, or use prescription treatments.
Questions
Is acetyl hexapeptide-3 the same as Argireline?
Argireline is the name most often used for acetyl hexapeptide-3. Products may use either name, so check the INCI list on the label.
Does it remove wrinkles?
In small trials (60 and 24 volunteers), it was associated with less visible lines around the eyes, judged by grading, skin replicas and skin-texture measures. It is not a replacement for medical treatment.
Is it the same as botulinum toxin?
No. It is a peptide applied to the skin, not a protein injected into muscle. The trials measure skin texture, not muscle activity.